Diving & Travel Guide to Sumbawa & Saleh Bay
Regional Overview
Sumbawa Island and its vast Saleh Bay represent one of Indonesia's most underrated and least-visited diving destinations, offering a remarkable combination of pristine reefs, whale shark encounters, and volcanic island exploration far from the tourist crowds of neighboring Bali and Lombok. The northern coast of Sumbawa faces the Java Sea and benefits from nutrient-rich waters that support healthy coral systems and diverse marine ecosystems. Moyo Island, a private island nature reserve in Saleh Bay, provides world-class diving on its fringing reefs with abundant reef fish, turtles, and occasional reef shark sightings in crystal-clear waters. The real draw of Saleh Bay, however, is the seasonal aggregation of whale sharks that gather to feed on the plankton-rich waters, particularly around the traditional fishing platforms (bagans) that dot the bay. Satonda Island, a small volcanic island north of Sumbawa, offers the unique experience of diving on reefs surrounding an active volcanic crater, with the added topside attraction of a crater lake accessible by a short hike. The southern coast of Sumbawa features dramatic limestone cliffs and exposed Indian Ocean reefs that attract experienced divers seeking powerful currents and pelagic encounters. With very limited tourism infrastructure and almost no international dive operators, Sumbawa delivers a genuine frontier diving experience for those willing to venture off the beaten path. Geologically, the region is dominated by the massive Mount Tambora, whose cataclysmic eruption in 1815 reshaped the island's topography and created the unique volcanic features found underwater today. This volcanic legacy provides a nutrient-dense environment where coral colonies can thrive, creating a resilient marine ecosystem that is a testament to the regenerative power of nature.
Getting There
Sumbawa is most commonly reached via Sumbawa Besar Airport (SWQ) with connecting flights from Bali and Lombok, or by ferry from Lombok's east coast to the port of Poto Tano. The journey from Lombok by ferry takes approximately 4-5 hours including the drive to the ferry terminal. Moyo Island is accessible by a 30-minute boat ride from the north coast, and Satonda Island requires a further hour by boat. The limited infrastructure means that most diving is organized through a handful of local operators or by chartering private boats. Some adventurous divers access the region as part of a sailing expedition between Lombok and Flores.
Food & Drink
Sumbawa's cuisine is hearty and rustic, reflecting the island's agricultural and fishing heritage. The local specialty is Sumbawan-style grilled chicken and beef, often marinated in a distinctive blend of local spices that differs markedly from Balinese or Javanese preparations. Fresh seafood is abundant and incredibly affordable, with local fishermen bringing in daily catches of tuna, snapper, and lobster. The resort on Moyo Island offers a more refined dining experience with both Indonesian and international dishes prepared to a high standard. Outside the resort, dining options are limited to local warungs and small restaurants serving standard Indonesian fare. You will also find traditional dishes like 'Sepat', a tangy and spicy fish dish prepared with local herbs and citrus, which is a favorite among the coastal communities. The volcanic soil in the northern part of the island supports a variety of tropical fruits, and the local mangoes are particularly prized for their flavor. Dining in Sumbawa is as much about the connection to the land and sea as it is about the flavors, with many of the best meals enjoyed in the informal setting of a seaside warung.
Diving Stats
Where to Base
Topside Adventures
Hike to the volcanic crater lake on Satonda Island
Explore the private island nature reserve of Moyo
Visit the Sultan's Palace (Dalam Loka) in Sumbawa Besar
Surf the world-class left-hand breaks on Sumbawa's south coast
Snorkel with whale sharks from traditional fishing platforms
Visit traditional Sumbawan weaving and pottery villages