La Roche (Barrel of Beef) - Rodney Bay & Pigeon Island - Northern Coast, Saint Lucia
Site Overview
La Roche - the rock the sailors called Barrel of Beef, a small islet a quarter-mile off Pigeon Island - is the north coast's playful shallow maze, a reef cut through by a network of underwater trenches and valleys that a diver threads and pokes along at no more than 15 metres, torch in hand, turning over one of the island's most reliable concentrations of small and medium reef life. The trench system is the whole appeal: instead of an open slope or a wall, you fin down low, sand-floored channels with rocky walls furred in coral and sponge, every chimney and crevice holding a spiny lobster, a grouper, a moray or a curious pair of triggerfish, and the bigger residents - great barracuda and the occasional passing turtle - cruising the channels from one shadowed hole to the next. Because the islet shelters the reef and the trenches stay shallow, the water is usually calm, warm and clear, which makes La Roche a comfortable, easy dive that nonetheless feels like an adventure; the labyrinth topography keeps a diver curious and turning corners in a way that a plain reef flat does not. It is a fun, sociable, critter-rich ground and a superb pairing with the historic Pigeon Island next door - a shallow, exploratory dive that lets a whole group, whatever their level, go poking about the rock's underwater back streets together.
Dive Briefing
“Enter beside the islet and drop into the shallow trench system at 8 to 15 metres, then explore the channels one at a time rather than racing across the reef - the point is to read the trench walls and light the holes. Keep your buoyancy tight and your hands to yourself; the walls are hard, encrusted rock and the crevices are occupied by lobsters and fish that resent a hand. Thread the valleys slowly, torch each chimney for groupers, morays and triggerfish, and watch the open channel for cruising barracuda and the occasional turtle. The maze can absorb a wandering diver, so keep your group and the surface in mind and don't push on past your air. Surface on your marker clear of the moorings, and take a look up at the rock itself as you wait for the boat. If the group is mixed, send the weaker divers into the widest, shallowest channel first and keep the tight, deep squeezes for the confident - the maze offers both, and nobody needs to be pushed.”
Location
La Roche (Barrel of Beef) and 4 nearby dive sites in Saint Lucia.
Signature Marine Life
Caribbean spiny lobster
Panulirus argus
Best: January, February, March
Great barracuda
Sphyraena barracuda
Best: January, February, March
Queen triggerfish
Balistes vetula
Best: January, February, March
Moray eel
Gymnothorax moringa
Best: January, February, March
Sergeant major
Amblyglyphidodon regulus
Best: January, February, March
Green turtle
Chelonia mydas
Best: January, February, March
Groupers
Epinephelus spp.
Best: January, February, March
Safety & Hazards
- Shallow rocky trenches - a loss of buoyancy means a hard knock against the walls, not soft sand
- Lobster and fish holes along the trench walls that a curious or bracing hand intrudes on
- Barracuda and triggerfish close to the walls; avoid shiny objects and give the territory its respect
- Boat traffic above the islet moorings; surface on a marker
- The trench labyrinth can disorient a wandering diver - keep the surface and your group in mind
Traveler Notes
Who is this for?
Casual recreational divers, families, beginners with a taste for exploration and macro-and-critter photographers all love La Roche - it is shallow, easy and calm, but the trench labyrinth gives an untrained or nervous diver a sense of adventure that an open reef flat never does. It pairs perfectly with a Pigeon Island morning for a historic-plus-underwater day. Divers wanting big walls or deep blue will find it modest; this is a playful, shallow, exploratory dive, and the lobsters and triggerfish are its stars.
For Non-Divers
La Roche sits a short hop off the Pigeon Island causeway, so a non-diving partner can combine your trench dive with a walk of the National Landmark's ruins and its famous sunset viewpoint, or with a day on Rodney Bay's waterfront. The islet itself - Barrel of Beef - is a low rock ringed by birds and visible from the causeway, marking the shallow labyrinth you explore below it.
Quick Stats
Dive Logistics
- Dive Saint Lucia / Scuba Steve's (Rodney Bay)
- Dive Fair Helen (Castries)
- Pigeon Landing / Gros Islet-based charters
Photography Info
Best for: wide_angle, macro
Nearby Stay
Coconut Partners Resort
Gros Islet (Rodney Bay) • 3km away
Sandals Grande St. Lucian Spa & Beach Resort
Gros Islet • 4km away